Verdant patchworks of rice paddies, pointed lampshade-style hats, a country ravaged by war, and economic repression - these are the international images of Vietnam, seen on worldwide television and read about in the newspapers. But there are other scenes to be found, ones of natural beauty, ethnic culture, and imperial history, of timeless traditional villages, idyllic sea resorts and dynamic cities.
Shaped like an elongated S, Vietnam stretches along the east coast of the Indochinese Peninsula and is likened by its people to a long bamboo pole hung with two baskets of rice, represented by the two fertile regions at either end of the country. Between the lush Red River Delta and the highlands in the north, known for their magnificent scenery and colourful hill tribes, and the agricultural plains and floating markets of the Mekong Delta in the south, lie miles of white sandy beaches, towering mountains, rivers and dense forests, and the thousands of bizarre rock and cave formations on the islands of Halong Bay.
The impact of Japanese and Chinese trade, French occupation and American intervention has left its stain on Vietnam, smeared over a period of more than two thousand years of recorded history. However, the country has also been left with a vivid legacy from different cultures evident in the character of its towns, as well as in the architecture and food. The quaint town of Hoi An, once a major trading port, boasts the perfectly preserved architectural influences of the Asian merchants from the north, while the broad leafy boulevards of the capital Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are reminiscent of France. Menus offer Chinese variations of spring rolls, steamed dumplings and noodles. Hué is the old imperial capital of Vietnam with its royal palaces and palatial mausoleums, and nearby the battle sites of the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) are reminders of the brutality of war.
Ancient temples and colourful pagodas are scattered throughout the urban centres, while among them stand hotels of modern luxury, and the development of tourism infrastructure is a booming business. Vietnam is a perfect balance between ancient times and the here and now, a country that reveres its past heroes, a nation that has collectively put the woes of war behind it, and people who welcome visitors to their country with open arms and friendly smiles.
The Cu Chi Tunnels system is an underground network of
tunnels dug in the 1940s by the Vietnamese as a place to hide
during the fight against the French. The network was later expanded
and used in the American War. The system consists of more than 150
miles (250km) of tunnels and unlit offshoots, secret trap doors
connecting narrow routes to hidden shelters, local rivers and
tunnels to the Cambodian border. It was a sprawling city of
improvised hospitals, living quarters, kitchens and fresh water
wells, with some tunnels barely large enough to wriggle through.
The plan was to launch surprise assaults on the enemy, and then
disappear; so successful a hiding place were the tunnels that first
the French and then the Americans struggled against these sudden
attacks in which the assailants seemed to vanish into fresh air.
Today many of the tunnels have been enlarged to allow visitors the
dirty and claustrophobic experience of crawling through a portion
of the underground network, past secret trapdoors and booby traps
laid against invasion. Unfortunately their popularity with visitors
has turned the area into a vicious tourist trap, with hard-sell
vendors a constant hassle among the touring throngs.
Excursion: Yes Address: 19 miles (30km) northwest of Ho Chi Minh City at Tay
Ninh Telephone: (08) 794 8820 Transport: The tunnels are best visited on a day tour, otherwise a
bus from Ben Thanh bus station stops in Cu Chi where public
transport services the site Opening Time: Daily 7.30am to 4.30pm Admission: 65,000d
This area of Saigon, located in District One,
stretching along the streets of De Tham, Pham Ngu Lau and Bui Vien
is host to most of the budget travellers in South Vietnam. Often
compared to the more famous Khao San road of Bangkok, this
district, similarly, is an amalgamation of bars, guesthouses,
restaurants, souvenir shops and small travel agencies. Known also
to be an expat playground, these bars stay open later than most in
the city. The prominent Go2 Bar is the most popular among tourists
but dozens dot the area. Day trips to the Mekong Delta or the Cu
Chi tunnels are easily organised in any of the travel agencies as
well as transport to most of Vietnam. Although prices vary the
trips usually are the same despite the agency.
Excursion: No
Cholon is the thriving warren of streets comprising
the Chinese district of Saigon, first settled by the Chinese Hoa
merchants at the end of the 18th century, and now home to the
biggest ethnic minority community in the country. The difference in
environment is immediately noticeable. The cluster of
Chinese-signed streets is a fascinating labyrinth of temples,
restaurants, exotic stores, medicine shops and markets. The best
place to experience the bustle of trade is at the crowded Binh Tay
Market where the corridors are filled with stalls offering a
variety of exotic produce, from live tethered ducks to nuts and
seeds, as well as other household items. There are several temples
of interest in Cholon, including the colourful Emperor of Jade
Temple, the Quan Am Pagoda with its ornate exterior, Phuoc An Hoi
Quan Temple, its roof exquisitely ornamented with dragons and sea
monsters, and the Thien Hau Pagoda dedicated to the goddess of the
sea.
Excursion: No Transport: From the city centre take the Saigon Star Co bus to
Huynh Thoai Yen
The best way to cool off in the hot dusty city is the
Dam Sen Water Park. It is part of a much larger theme park but the
highlights all circle the water fun. Part of the adventure is
wondering if anything is up to Vietnamese safety standards, or if
there are safety standards to be up to. Either way the great
selection of water slides hurtle passengers, full speed, up
railings and down steep drops. For relaxation a large wave pool and
a circling stream are great to float away the heat. A tourist
designated section of the compound is a nice place to relax if the
crowds are too much. Never visit on a public holiday unless
standing shoulder to shoulder in waste deep water sounds
fun.
Excursion: No Address: Located in district 11. Opening Time: Open daily
GO BACK TO THE INDEX PAGE